FREE CROCHET PATTERN
Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
Make your own adorable Toothless-inspired dragon with this detailed crochet pattern. You will crochet a poseable dragon with wired wings, sewn spines, and expressive embroidered eyes. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, material lists, and assembly tips so you can finish a beautiful handmade companion. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a whimsical décor piece.
Whimsical Buddy
Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.
ABOUT THIS PATTERN
This pattern creates a Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi with wired wings, poseable legs, and stitched facial details. You will work with two yarn weights to crochet eyes, eyelids, and the main body for crisp detailing. The pattern includes wire-frame wings and options for plastic joints or cotter pins for sturdy limb attachment. Clear step-by-step rounds and helpful photos guide you through assembly and finishing.
Detailed materials and tools list included, with exact wire sizes and joint options. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with amigurumi shaping and basic wire framing techniques.
WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT
I absolutely love this pattern because it balances charming character and structural design beautifully. I enjoy how the wired wings bring the dragon to life and allow for playful posing. The combination of fine yarn for the body and lace-weight yarn for the eyes creates delightful contrast and detail that make the face pop. Sewing the spines and adding tiny seed beads for accents adds a meditative, satisfying finishing touch that I always find rewarding.
💡 SWITCH THINGS UP
I like to change up colors to create different moods—try deep charcoal for a realistic Toothless look or softer grays and pastels for a cuter, stylized version.
If you want a larger or smaller dragon, change yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn with a bigger hook creates a cuddly, oversized dragon while thinner yarn makes a mini version.
I often add wire to the limbs for posability; you can use thinner wire for gentle bends or thicker wire for stronger poses depending on how you want the wings and tail to hold shape.
Try substituting seed beads with tiny embroidered dots or French knots for a different accent instead of gluing beads—this gives a textured, secure finish.
For a shiny eye effect, you can replace the crocheted eyes with safety eyes or resin eyes, or paint the inner pupil and glare for a hand-painted look.
If you prefer no visible wire ends, conceal frames by wrapping them in floral tape or yarn before inserting to create a smoother interior and easier sewing.
I sometimes embroider small scars, freckles or a little smile to change the dragon's expression and personality—simple stitches can dramatically alter the face.
Want a fantasy colorway? Use variegated or hand-dyed yarn for the body and a contrasting bright color for the eyes to make them pop and give the piece unique character.
Make small clothing or accessories like a tiny scarf, banner, or saddle to create a themed set—these are great for gifting or display variations.
Experiment with different finishing touches like dry pastel tinting (as suggested), matte or glossy textile paints, and tiny stitched claws for extra realism or whimsical effects.
IMPORTANT NOTES
- Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each round and use the extra (shift) stitch when indicated to align the marker correctly.
- Stuff pieces gradually and shape as you go; stuff tightly only the lower parts of legs (feet) and avoid overstuffing neck and joints.
- Leave long yarn tails for sewing pieces and hide ends inside after assembly for a clean finish.
- When assembling the wire frames, bend wire ends as illustrated and wrap joints with insulating tape before sewing to secure frames together.
🧶 Materials
- Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - color 454 (dark gray) - quantity as needed
- Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - color 460 (black) - quantity as needed
- Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes
- Toy stuffing material (fiberfill) - enough to firmly stuff head, body, legs, and tail
- Seed beads - for optional decoration
Tools Required
- Crochet hook size 2 mm
- Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
- Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
- Scissors
- Sewing pins
- Wire for the frame diameter 0.9mm - lengths: 23cm (2pcs.), 19cm (4pcs.), 13cm (2pcs.)
- Wire for the frame diameter 1.6mm - length: 45cm
- Hot glue gun
- Textile paint in black and white colors
- Round nose pliers
- Plastic joints size 25mm (for hind legs, 2pcs.) and size 15mm (for forelegs, 2pcs.)
- Disks size 25mm (4pcs.) and disks size 15mm (4pcs.) for cotter pins fastening
- T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs.
- Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
- Dry black pastel for tinting
- Yarn needle for sewing and finishing
📖 Abbreviations
- MR - magic ring
- sc - single crochet
- inc - increase (2 sc in one stitch)
- dec - decrease (2 sc together)
- hdc - half double crochet
- hdcinc - half double crochet increase (2 hdc in one stitch)
- dc - double crochet
- ch - chain
- t-ch - turning chain (when work in rows)
- sl st - slip stitch
- BLO - back loops only
- Bobble st - crochet unfinished dc stitches in one stitch with a common top
- (...) - number in brackets means a number of stitches in a round
- (...)*N - repeat instruction in brackets N times
🧩 Pattern Steps
— Head :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.
Round 1 :
6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2 :
6inc (12)
Round 3 :
(1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4 :
1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)
Round 5 :
(3sc, inc)*6 (30)
Round 6 :
2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)
Round 7 :
(5sc, inc)*6 (42)
Round 8 :
3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)
Round 9 :
(7sc, inc)*6 (54)
Round 10 :
4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)
Round 11 :
(9sc, inc)*6 (66)
Round 12 :
66sc (66)
Round 13 :
5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)
Round 14-21 :
72sc (8 rounds)
Round 22 :
18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)
Round 23 :
5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)
Round 24 :
(9sc, dec)*6 (60)
Round 25 :
4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)
Round 26 :
(7sc, dec)*6 (48)
Round 27 :
2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3
Round 28 :
skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)
Round 29 :
2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)
Round 30 :
(2sc, dec)*6 (18)
Round 31 :
(1sc, dec)*6 (12)
Round 32 :
6dec (6)
Infos :
Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head. Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.
— Eyes (make 2) :
Info :
Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.
Round 1 :
6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2 :
6inc (12)
Round 3 :
(1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4 :
(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)
Round 5 :
3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)
Infos :
Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front. On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint (see photo). HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes (marked in the photo). PS. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like.
— Eyelids (make 2) :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.
— Ears (make 2) :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.
Round 1 :
6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2 :
(1sc, inc)*3 (9)
Round 3 :
4sc, inc, 4sc (10)
Round 4 :
4sc, inc, 5sc (11)
Round 5 :
5sc, inc, 5sc (12)
Round 6 :
(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)
Round 7-8 :
14sc (2 rounds)
Round 9 :
6sc, dec, 6sc (13)
Round 10 :
5sc, dec, 6sc (12)
Info :
Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.
— Spines :
Spines 1 (make 2) :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6)
Info :
Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).
Spines 2 (make 2) :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. (2sc, inc)*2 (8) 3. 8sc (8)
Info :
Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).
Spines 3 (make 2) :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff. 1. 6sc in a MR (6) 2. 6sc (6) 3. (1sc, dec)*2 (4)
Info :
Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).
— Hind Legs :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook:
Round 1 :
6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)
Round 2 :
inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)
Round 3 :
1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)
Round 4 :
9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches).
Info :
Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.
Round 5 :
31sc (31)
Round 6 :
(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)
Round 7 :
6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)
Round 8 :
6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)
Round 9-13 :
18sc (5 rounds)
Info :
Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).
Round 14 :
(5sc, inc)*3 (21)
Round 15-16 :
21sc (2 rounds)
Info :
Left hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening:
Round 17 :
13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)
Round 18 :
13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)
Round 19 :
21sc (21)
Info :
For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21 sc (3 rounds)
Info :
Right hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening:
Round 17 :
6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)
Round 18 :
6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)
Round 19 :
21sc (21)
Info :
For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds)
Infos :
Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) and 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.
Round 20 :
(5sc, dec)*2 (12)
Round 21 :
(1sc, dec)*6 (12)
Round 22 :
6dec (6)
Infos :
Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. Pay attention to the photo below. As an example, I showed you two ways of fastening: cotter pin - on the right foot and plastic joint - on the left. Choose the option you like and use it for the hind and forelegs.
— Forelegs :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.
Round 1 :
6sc in a MR (6)
Round 2 :
6inc (12)
Round 3 :
(1sc, inc)*6 (18)
Round 4 :
5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc
Round 5-7 :
18sc (3 rounds)
Round 8 :
8sc, dec, 8sc (17)
Round 9 :
17sc (17)
Round 10 :
5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)
Round 11 :
15sc (15)
Round 12 :
6sc, dec, 7sc (14)
Round 13 :
6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 14 :
dec, 12sc, dec (14)
Round 15 :
6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)
Round 16 :
dec, 12sc, dec (14)
Info :
Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.
Info :
Left foreleg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16). 18. dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14).
Info :
Right foreleg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17. 6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16). 18. dec, 12sc, dec (14).
Infos :
Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D15mm is suitable for me). When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) and 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Count stitches along round 17 and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.
Round 19 :
(5sc, dec)*2 (12)
Round 20 :
6dec (6)
Info :
Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.
— Wings (make 2) :
Info :
Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.
Info :
Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).
Round 1 :
27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.
Round 2 :
from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.
Round 3 :
from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.
Round 4 :
from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.
Round 5 :
from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.
Round 6 :
from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.
Round 7 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 8 :
from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.
Round 9 :
from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.
Round 10 :
from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.
Info :
Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).
Round 11 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.
Round 12 :
from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.
Round 13 :
from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.
Round 14 :
from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.
Round 15 :
from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.
Round 16 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.
Round 17 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)
Round 18 :
from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.
Round 19 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 20 :
from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.
Round 21 :
from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.
Round 22 :
from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.
Info :
Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).
Round 23 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.
Round 24 :
from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.
Round 25 :
from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.
Round 26 :
from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.
Round 27 :
from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.
Round 28 :
from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.
Round 29 :
from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.
Round 30 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.
Round 31 :
from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.
Round 32 :
from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.
Info :
Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).
Round 33 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.
Round 34 :
from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.
Round 35 :
from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.
Round 36 :
from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.
Round 37 :
from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.
Round 38 :
from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.
Round 39 :
from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)
Infos :
Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.
— Tail :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.
Round 1 :
4sc in a MR (6)
Round 2-4 :
4sc (3 rounds)
Round 5 :
(1sc, inc)*2 (6)
Round 6-8 :
6sc (3 rounds)
Round 9 :
(2sc, inc)*2 (8)
Round 10-11 :
8sc (2 rounds)
Round 12 :
(3sc, inc)*2 (10)
Round 13 :
10sc (10)
Round 14 :
2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)
Round 15 :
12sc (12)
Round 16 :
(5sc, inc)*2 (14)
Round 17 :
14sc (14)
Round 18 :
3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)
Round 19 :
16sc (16)
Round 20 :
(7sc, inc)*2 (18)
Round 21-22 :
18sc (2 rounds)
Round 23 :
4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)
Round 24-26 :
20sc (3 rounds)
Round 27 :
(9sc, inc)*2 (22)
Round 28-30 :
22sc (3 rounds)
Round 31 :
5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)
Round 32-33 :
24sc (2 rounds)
Round 34 :
(11sc, inc)*2 (26)
Round 35-36 :
26sc (2 rounds)
Round 37 :
6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)
Round 38 :
28sc
Round 39 :
(13sc, inc)*2 (30)
Infos :
Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.
— Body :
Info :
Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.
Round 1 :
11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)
Round 2 :
6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)
Round 3 :
14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)
Round 4 :
10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)
Round 5 :
3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)
Round 6 :
48sc (48)
Round 7 :
(7sc, inc)*6 (54)
Round 8-9 :
54sc (2 rounds)
Info :
In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.
Round 10 :
For plastic joints legs fastening: 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)
Round 11 :
13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)
Info :
For cotter pins legs fastening: 10. 54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)
Round 11 :
54sc (54)
Round 12-16 :
54sc (5 rounds)
Round 17 :
8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)
Round 18 :
20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)
Info :
Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.
Round 19 :
49sc (49)
Round 20 :
20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)
Round 21 :
47sc (47)
Round 22 :
21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)
Round 23 :
(13sc, dec)*3 (42)
Round 24 :
42sc (42)
Round 25 :
6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)
Round 26 :
39sc (39)
Round 27 :
(11sc, dec)*3 (36)
Info :
In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.
Round 28 :
For plastic joints legs fastening: 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.
Round 29 :
3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)
Info :
For cotter pins legs fastening: 28. 3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and 10 and stitches 27 and 28 with a thread in a contrasting color)
Round 29 :
3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)
Round 30 :
8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)
Round 31 :
34sc (34)
Round 32 :
(15sc, dec)*2 (32)
Round 33 :
32sc (32)
Info :
Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).
Round 34 :
7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)
Info :
Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.
Round 35 :
4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)
Round 36 :
(7sc, dec)*3 (24)
Round 37 :
24sc (24)
Info :
It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.
— Tail Fin (make 2) :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops:
Round 1 :
12sc (12), ch3, turn
Round 2 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.
Round 3 :
from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn
Round 4 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.
Round 5 :
from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn
Round 6 :
from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)
Infos :
Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.
— Spines (make 16) :
Info :
Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
- Pass the 1.6mm wire frame from the body through the hole in the tail, bend the end and stuff the tail, then continue crocheting the body around the frame; later pass the frame into the head through the hole in rounds 27-28 and sew the head to the body securely.
- Insert the wire frames of the wings into the holes crocheted in round 28 of the body, connect wing frames with the body frame, wrap the joined wires with insulating tape, then sew the wings to the back.
- Attach legs using either plastic joints or cotter pins as preferred: fold the leg, select the appropriate disk/joint size to fill internal space (D25mm for hind legs, D15mm for forelegs recommended), insert and secure then stuff gently.
- Position eyes, eyelids, ears, spines and tail fins with sewing pins before sewing; sew each piece with the long yarn ends left previously, hide ends inside and add seed beads or paint details last.
- Fix spines to head, body and tail by sewing using the long tails left when crocheting spines; use photos as guide for placement and then sew on seed beads if desired.
COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID
Skipping the extra (shift) stitch at the end of rounds can misalign your marker and distort shaping; always crochet the extra stitch and move the marker one stitch as instructed.
Not stuffing gradually causes lumps and uneven shaping in legs and body; stuff a little at a time and shape as you go for smooth contours.
Forgetting to leave long ends when instructed prevents neat sewing and finishing; always leave the long yarn ends specified for sewing pieces and hiding ends inside.
Using the wrong wire diameter or length for the wing frames can break the shape or make insertion difficult; use the exact wire diameters and lengths recommended and bend the ends as shown.
This Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi is a delightful project that combines wire framing and delicate crochet detail to create a poseable, heartwarming companion. Bring it to life with painted eyes, sewn spines, and a carefully wrapped wing frame for stability and charm. Whether you choose plastic joints or cotter pins, the finished toy will be a unique handmade treasure to keep or gift. 🧶🖤
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
What size will the finished piece be?
The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm.
Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?
You can use different yarn weights but it will affect the final size and appearance; match hook size to your yarn and expect a change in scale.
Do I need experience with wire framing and joints?
This pattern is intermediate and includes wire frames and optional plastic joints or cotter pins, so some familiarity with bending wire and basic joint fastening is helpful.
How long does this project typically take to complete?
Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours depending on experience and whether you add beadwork or extra detailing.
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